Why Can’t I Do It Myself?

“Why do I need a professional to come to my house and spray for termites?  I can do it myself, right?”  Many home improvement centers have a section for termite control and for self-install baiting systems around the home, but these may not be enough to  eliminate the problem if you have termites.  Just spraying when termites swarm or spraying the wood will most likely not be enough of a deterrent to take care of the bigger problem, the colony.   If you have read my previous blog or any other blog that writes about termites, you will know that termites are not solitary insects.  They come in large numbers, which is why a little spraying won’t get rid of them.

If you check with your local extension services, you will find that they most often suggest that you get in touch with a professional for most pest control—especially for termites.
Below are the reasons why professional control is a much better choice:

1)   To effectively establish a chemical barrier around your home you will need to dig a trench in the soil on both sides of the foundation and piers that support your home.
Just spraying on the surface of the dirt will not alleviate the source of the problem.  The trenches will need to be between four to six inches wide and six inches deep.  Not the kind of thing the normal home-owner wishes to tackle.

2)   There is a larger amount of chemical that should be used for this treatment than is usually purchased for pest control.  For example, you would need about 112 gallons of diluted (1%) termiticide just to treat the soil along the foundation trench for a single-story home that measures about 1200 sq. ft. (40’ x 30’).  Because the amount depends on the type of construction, you might need in excess of 150 gallons of termiticide for this
small structure. Not many homeowners have the equipment to apply this amount of
chemical or know the safety issues involved in its use.

3)   If you have slabs, you would need to drill holes in the slab in order to place the treatment.  After drilling, the insecticide is applied using pressure injection through
the holes.  Specialized treatment of the termiticide and training and equipment and chemical usage is a must to avoid any bodily injury, damage of utilities, etc.  Your house will be vulnerable to future termite invasion if you “just spray.”  Even though this step doesn’t seem necessary, if you don’t do it then the job is incomplete.

4)   You see that the amount of chemical is large, and to buy that much over-the-counter product will be very expensive.  Ohio State University has estimated that an over-the-counter chemical could cost at least two and one-half times what it would cost a licensed pest control operator for the same job.

5)   If you’ve allowed a professional to install baiting stations, it’s important to be sure that they are diligently monitored.  Baiting stations are often used in addition to liquid termite treatment, so just using the baiting system by itself may not be enough.  When you have a professional treat your termites, expect to see your technician for not only
installation, but monitoring as well.  Don’t expect instant results.  It may take anywhere from a few weeks to more than a year to get a termite infestation under control.

Even if you read the labels and apply as directed, a homeowner may be able to take care of the immediate need, but there will not be any long-lasting effects.  The source that I used for this article says, “’Protection’ against new infestations is not the same thing as ‘elimination’ of an existing termite infestation.”  This is because most homeowners will not or cannot do the amount of research that is necessary to know about the behavior of termites and their colonies.  If you already have an active colony, they may ignore do-it-yourself baiting stations because they have already found a source of food and will snub your food.

Even the guarantee of nine-month protection is not a sure thing.  The treatment may have long expired when the swarmers begin flying.  Your best bet is to leave it to the
professionals.  With the correct recommendation and treatment by your termite technician, your home can be termite free.

************************************************************************

The above information was derived from the text Secrets to a Pest Free Home by Richard C. Burton. ©2003

Got Termites? Now What?

You and/or your inspector have established the fact that you have an infestation of
termites.  Now what?  Before you can make a final decision about treating the problem, there are a few things that you must take into consideration, while dialoging with your pest control provider:

• What type of termites is present in your home?
• What materials have been used in the building of your home?
• What is the condition of your home?
• What structural features does your home have?
• What part of the country do you live in?
• How much moisture is present in the infested area?
• What degree of assurance against infestation do you desire?
• What treatments have been used on your home in the past?
• How much time has elapsed since your last treatment?

     Once these questions have been answered, it will be much easier for your pest control  provider to decide which of the newest treatments will best suite your needs.  Research in the field of termite treatment is on-going.  Researchers are constantly finding and refining new methods for the fight against termite infestation.  Because there are so many  different forms of treatment available, it is very likely that your pest control provider will combine a number of weapons to achieve the maximum results in termite control.  There are four basic types of treatment methods that are very effective in this fight:

Liquid termiticides – Being the most accepted of the four methods, liquid treatments are used where there is an active colony present.  Also, the liquid treatment will effectively create a barrier around your home.  This will keep the  termites where they belong—outside of your house and possibly prevent future  attacks.  If you are building a new home, this is an ideal time for the liquid termiticides to be applied.  If you have a slab foundation on a structure that is already built, trenching and drilling holes will be necessary to allow the pressure-injected termiticides to be introduced to the foundation and create a barrier.  To be effective, this barrier must have no breaks in it.

Foam termiticides – A foam treatment is useful because it is capable of reaching places where normal liquid treatment may fail.  Not only is the liquid termiticide present in this treatment, but the foam expands to create a barrier.  Places that this is especially effective are the base of chimneys, under porches that are dirt-filled and where as the structure settled, crack occurred.  The foam treatment is not suitable or effective for directly treating soil.  The pest control technician will usually apply an initial application of liquid termiticide, followed by foam in a secondary application.

Borate Treatments – A borate solution is sprayed directly on wood and then allowed to soak in.  This treatment has been around a long time, but they have only recently started using it as part of the line of termite treatments.  What happens is that the insects are repelled by the borates, but if the insect eats the treated wood, the liquid works on the enzymes in the stomach of the insect.  The insect will then starve to death because its body cannot absorb any nutrients for living.  Studies have shown that termites can be repelled for up to nine years with this treatment.  According to the source of this information, this treatment is good to use in new homes and one of its advantages is that this is a less toxic choice than the other methods may provide.

Bait Stations – This is a relatively newer type of treatment for termites.  This method attacks the colonies in the soil.  This method requires stations to be placed about 10 feet apart around the perimeter of the building and then diligently monitoring the stations on a scheduled basis for termite activity.  The bait is eaten by termites and carried back to the colony, where others share the food and eventually the colony is destroyed.   Bait stations are best used as a preventative measure for new infestations.  Bait stations by themselves cannot control an infestation in a home.  But, a baiting station along with another of the conventional methods will help to get the termites under control and finally eliminated from the properties.  Once the termites are under control, then you may be able to rely only on a baiting station to prevent future infestations.

With the right kind of treatment, you can worry less about your home being a meal for some pest!

Next time we’ll discuss why it’s best to leave termites to the professionals.

********************************************************************************

The above information was derived from the text Secrets to a Pest Free Home by Richard C. Burton.   ©2003

How To Put Your Termites on a Diet

The motivation for termites is their stomach.  They are hungry for cellulose and will seek food from many sources.  They are sneaky eaters.  Termites create galleries, or tunnels, that go with the grain of the wood as they feed.  The tastiest wood is the springwood because it is soft and it leaves the heart-wood to keep the form of the structure.  The heart-wood form helps them keep their domicile secret so that you don’t know that they have finished their meal and are working on another eating establishment.  Only by tapping with a screwdriver or ice pick will you be able to detect the damage they have done to the structure.  By keeping a lookout for this type of destruction, you can determine if your home is infested or in the beginning stages of infestation.

There are a few ways that will help you discourage termites from coming into your home, which include: 

• Clearing your yard and foundation area of cardboard debris, excess wood and wood piles.  Make sure that your supply of fire wood is far enough away from your home and be sure to examine the wood you plan to burn before bringing it inside.
• Make sure that your basement and crawlspaces have proper ventilation.  This will keep moisture from collecting and setting the stage for an infestation.
• If you are a gardener, refrain from allowing your plants to have contact with your outside walls.  The plants allow the concrete to retain moisture and are a great source of travel for termites.
• If at all possible, keep foam board and wood from coming in contact with the soil.  If there is wood in contact with the soil, be sure that it has been treated properly against termites. 

This week is short and sweet, but we hope that the information will inspire you to seek out possible ways to prevent damage and how to detect damage that may have already occurred. 

If you’ve got termite, how should the infestation be treated and prevent future occurrences?  Tune in next week for the answers! 

 *****************************************************************************

The above information was derived from the text Secrets to a Pest Free Home by Richard C. Burton.   ©2003

A Mud Fortress

Kids love to build things when they play in the mud, so why shouldn’t termites?  Termites have a good reason to construct mud tubes, though.  These tunnels are there for their protection.  They protect termites from low humidity, extreme temperatures and are a huge source of protection from their enemies.  The size of the tubes will range from about ¼”–1” in diameter and are used by the termites to traverse from the ground to their food source.  Subterranean termites differ from drywood termites in that the drywood termite will expel their fecal matter and wood particles, but the subterranean termite will put it to use along with sand and soil particles to produce a strong, plaster-like material for building these earth-colored tunnels.

When you see new mud tubes, you know that there are termites present.  Yearly inspections of your home make it possible to locate the problem area quickly.  Examination of your home should include inside and outside of the foundation, cracks that appear in your concrete floor, and especially places where pipes go through the concrete slab of your home.  Termites love these spaces because they can enter undetected, especially if you do not have a regular, yearly inspection. 

You may need to acquaint yourself with the different types of mud tubes that could be found at your home.  The first tube is a working tube which will go from the ground, along the concrete or stone and up to a wood surface.  These are especially helpful in locating termites, because they originate in the nest underground.  The second type of tube is the exploratory and migratory tube.  These, too, come from the ground, but they do not attach to any wood.  The last type is a drop tube.  These extend from a wooden structure down to the ground.  They may also be found inside the home on a ceiling.

Keeping your eyes open for possible activity will go a long way in helping you protect possibly your biggest investment!  I love the old African Proverb that says small termites collapse the roof.  Knowing what to look for and being pro-active is the key to limiting termite activity.

Next time we’ll discuss damage and how you can prevent termites from looking at your home like a smorgasbord. 

The above information was derived from the text Secrets to a Pest Free Home by Richard C. Burton.   ©2003

 

Come Out, Come Out, Wherever You Are!

As kids, we used to play hide and seek and when you wanted everyone who was still hiding to come out, you yelled, “Come out, come out, wherever you are”!  How do you know if your home has been invaded by termites?  There are no special words that you can yell that will make them show themselves, so you must continue the game of hide and seek. 

The first step is to have a thorough inspection of your home and property for both prevention and detection of termites.  The inspection will let you know if there are termites dwelling within your home, making their way into your home, and what kind of damage has happened and the extent of the damage.  It will also allow the inspector to know what treatment and repair will be necessary to eliminate the pests.  You may be able to see some of the damage, but a complete inspection by a trained professional who knows about structural elements and the interaction of termites is the best way to fight these insects that will literally eat you out of house and home. 

The inspector should have the following equipment for the inspection: 

• Flashlight
• Ice pick or screwdriver (for tapping or probing)
• Ladder
• Protective clothing (hat, coveralls, knee pads)
• Floor plans to record findings accurately
• Moisture meter

 The inspector will be looking for specific damage and evidence of infestation. 

• On window sills or near an indoor light he will look for swarmers.  If seen indoors, it’s a good indicator of immediate infestation.  If seen outdoors, it may indicate that a building near the structure is being attacked and they have not yet entered the home.
• Wings found near windows, in cobwebs or on window sills indicate the presence of termites.
• Mud tubes found between the soil and the food source are evidence of infestation.  You will find them going up columns, on foundation walls or on pipes.
• Wood that is in contact with the soil may show signs of moisture damage.  Tapping on this surface will give a dull, thudding sound.  When probed with a screwdriver or ice pick you will find tunnels following the grain of the wood. 

Places to check outside the structure will include joints, cracks and expansion joints where mud tubes will be located.  Porches, patios, sidewalks, areas near kitchens and bathrooms are also good places to find mud tubes.  Once you’ve found evidence of infestation, you will be better able to make decisions about how to go about fighting this game-playing pest. 

Next time we’ll explore a little more about mud tubes-what they are, where to find them and what role they play in the termite world. 

*********************************************************************************************

The above information was derived from the text, Secrets to a Pest Free Home by Richard C. Burton.   ©2003

 

They Will Eat You Out of House and Home–Literally!

Termites would be a natural on Facebook, seeing how they are very social insects.  They are not loners and where you find one, you will often find a large colony.  These creatures are comfortable in areas such as dead wood and brush.  Termites have six legs and a body that has three parts:  a head, a thorax and an abdomen.  They are white in color, similar to a maggot, but they have legs.  Because termites are sensitive creatures, when the right environment is not available, they will be glad to relocate to any place that provides them with their favorite treat, cellulose.  Cellulose is derived from any wood or wood based product, which is why homes are very susceptible to termite infestation.

Since termites try to avoid light and open air spaces, they keep themselves out of sight so you may seldom actually see a termite in your home.  Tunnels give them the ability to go virtually undetected while reaching their food source, wood.  If you can’t see the termite, chances are great that you won’t see how they destroy your wood.  It is estimated that there is annually approximately $750,000,000 in property damage.  That means that over 2 million homes are being damaged by termites in one year.

Termites will infiltrate a home through wood that is in direct contact with the soil, through cracks and joints in and under the homes foundation, debris that is left unattended beneath the house, drainage problems, unprotected joints between porches and the foundation and by openings around pipes and the insulation around them.

The soil is the preferred location of termite nests, but they are looking for food wherever they can find it.  A colony can be a small group (in the beginning) or a nest of up to several thousand insects in one place.   The colony lives in a caste system similar to that of bees.  There are worker termites, soldiers, winged reproductive termites, a queen termite, and a king termite.

The worker termites are the largest group in the colony.  They care for the eggs, construct and maintain tunnels, look for food and feed and take care of the other members of the colony.  They are usually white in color and without wings.

The soldier’s job is  It protects the colony from predators.  They are also white, but they have large jaws that are used as weapons when protecting their fellow termites.

Winged reproductive termites are the producer of the offspring and are the ones that swarm at certain times of the year, mainly January through April.  The swarming usually takes place during the daylight and often you will find them swarming following a rain.  They can be wingless, so they are often mislabeled.  The primary reproductives are the queen termite and the king termite, of which there is only one of each.  There are hundreds of other reproductive termites who help with the laying of eggs within the colony; however, the king and queen are responsible for the initial creation of the colony.  The queen can live for ten years and produce hundreds of offspring each year.  That’s a lot of potential wood damage!

One thing that helps a colony maintain its quantity is the ability to change caste type, depending on what the colony needs.  This change will occur during the termite’s immature stage.

Drywood termite frass

Drywood termites occupy dry, sound wood.  They produce six-sided frass (waste) which is evidence of their infestation.  These pellets are pushed through holes that are the size of a pencil and look like coffee grounds.  The damage that is caused by drywood termites appear along and across the wood grain.  You can usually locate this type of destruction by tapping along the wood and listening for a hollow sound.

Drywood termites occupy dry, sound wood.  They produce six-sided frass (waste) which is evidence of their infestation.  These pellets are pushed through holes that are the size of a pencil and look like coffee grounds.  The damage that is caused by drywood termites appear along and across the wood grain.  You can usually locate this type of destruction by tapping along the wood and listening for a hollow sound.

Termite tubes

The ground termite requires food, a consistent source of moisture and a tropical environment to survive.  The frass is sticky and is made into tubes.  The damage is usually with the grain of the wood.  Because the ground termite requires moisture, it generally resides in the ground (hence the name), but they can produce nests above the ground if there is a consistent moisture source, such as roof leaks, plumbing leaks, leaky showers and tubs, toilet leaks, etc.  Tubes enable these creatures to go to and from their moisture source and protect them from predators and dehydration.  When leaks are fixed, this often will speed their demise due to the lack of moisture available.

A good way to prevent termite activity is to use treated lumber during construction.  Additionally, any end cut wood that is untreated and exposed should be coated with a termiticide.  It goes without saying that sealing cracks and crevices with caulking will help to ensure a termite-free environment.  Be sure that all leaks are fixed quickly and any wood damage is taken care of soon after detection.  Also, don’t depend on a swarm to indicate infestation.  Be alert to any holes or unusual debris around wood structures.  If you have any questions about whether it is termite related, please call someone to have them identify the findings.  It may save your house from structural damage you can’t really afford. 

Rodents: What you may not want to know, but should. (Part 6 of 6)

MYTH:  Some rodenticides cause rodents to go find water to drink.

FACT:   I know of no current product that causes this reaction after it is eaten.  This myth probably arose to help reassure customers that rodents would not be dying in their house or business.  Rats must already have a source of water in order to survive in an area.  Mice need very little to no water to drink because they get their moisture from their food. 

Kaukeinen, Dale E.  “(More) Myths about Rodents.” Pest Management Professional May 2008: Vol. 76 No. 5.  Print. 

 [The following information is taken in part from Truman’s Scientific Guide to Pest Management Operations, Sixth Edition] 

 The Roof Rat

Although there are specific differences in behavior between the roof and Norway rat, many of the general behavior patters of rats relevant to the pest management professional are similar.  Important differences are discussed here and in the control section.

In their natural environment, the roof rat consumes a wide variety of vegetative foods such as berries, nuts, seeds, and fruits.  They also consume insects, slugs, and snails.  But like the Norway rat, the roof rat is an opportunist and will eat almost anything that is nutritional and available.  The roof rat tends to eat small amounts of food in several different places during foraging activity.  This has important implications for roof rat baiting strategies. 

As was the case with the Norway rat, the home range of the roof rat varies according to the location and distribution of resources in its area and other factors.  Within average conditions, the roof rat ranges from 50 to 100 feet of is next to explore and gather resources.  However, this rat is also known to travel considerable distances ranging up to 300 feet on a daily basis.  In suburban neighborhoods roof rats may live in the trees or bushes of one residence but travel to feed at another residence several houses away, using various overhead utility lines or fences as their highways between their nest and “restaurants.” 

The roof rat, by nature is somewhat of a skittish animal and very sensitive to changes in its environment.  Occasionally, when nests are disturbed during yard cleaning, flushed roof rats abandon the particular area.  It also prefers to feed under cover, or will carry exposed foods back to the nest or to nearby protected areas. 

Because the roof rat gravitates towards cover and is less dependent on human food than the Norway rat, roof rats tend to become especially troublesome in suburban yards and neighborhoods that contain combinations of lush landscaping, well-established dense tree cover, fruit trees, outdoor dog pens, and/or bird feeders. 

The roof rat is appropriately named because by nature it is a climber and commonly lives above the ground in “roof” or aerial areas around structures.  This behavior also enables this rat to remain undetected for prolonged periods. 

In tropical area of the United States, nests are often constructed in the corns of palm trees—especially trees where the old fronds have not been removed for some time.  Roof rats will also occasionally construct globular leafy nests in much the same way tree squirrels do.  Nests are located in clinging vines, on the sides of buildings and fences, or inside buildings in attic areas.  Roof rats enter buildings from the roof or by using various utility lines, much in the same manner as do the tree squirrels.  In fact, they can often be seen at night running up and down trees or along utility lines and fences. However, roof rats don’t restrict themselves to aerial areas alone.  As local populations of roof rats grow, they will expand their nesting areas to include underground burrows within residential and industrial landscaped areas, ground floor areas inside buildings, and under piles of rubbish.  In some cities, such as Phoenix, Arizona, the roof rat has been found inhabiting sewers. 

Bennett, Gary W., Owens, John M., Corrigan, Robert M. Truman’s Scientific Guide to Pest Management Operations, Sixth ed. Cleveland:  Advanstar Communications, Inc. 2005.  Print.

This was our final segment on rodents.  We hope you’ve learned something about rats and mice that will help to alleviate any problems you might encounter.  If this doesn’t help, please be sure to give us a call. 

Next Blog:  Termites

Rodents: What you may not want to know, but should. (Part 5 of 6)

MYTH:  Some rodenticides cause rodents to dry up without smelling.

FACT:   There is no known product that rodents would eat that would cause this to happen.  Some sellers of rodenticides or rodent control services have made this claim to get business, knowing that customers do not want dead rats dying in enclosed places where odors may be a problem.

            The fact is that rodents may eat rodenticide bait, crawl away and die somewhere away from the structure so odor is not detected.  When rats or mice do create an odor problem, such as dying in a wall, the rodent can sometimes be located and removed, or odor-control materials applied.

 

Kaukeinen, Dale E.  “(More) Myths about Rodents.” Pest Management Professional May 2008: Vol. 76 No. 5.  Print.

 

The final segment on Roof Rats will round out our rodent blogs, for a while…RATS!  This rodent is found to be more prevalent in the southeast and the western coastal areas. 

[The following information is taken in part from Truman’s Scientific Guide to Pest Management Operations, Sixth Edition]

 

The Roof Rat

The roof rat is also known as the black rat, ship rat, gray-bellied rat, Alexandrine rat and white-bellied rat.  This rat originated in the arboreal forest of Southeast Asia and thus it is adapted for efficient climbing in vines, narrow ledges and wires.  Roof rats probably arrived in the Americas with the earliest explorers of Florida in the early 1500’s.

Roof rats are smaller and sleeker in appearance than the Norway rat.  Adults weigh from 5 to 9 ounces.  The color of the fur is usually grayish black to a solid black while the belly varies from buff-white to all gray.  The snout is pointed; the ears are large and reach the eyes when pulled down.  The tail is long, and reaches the snout when pulled over the body.

The reproductive biology of the roof rat is generally similar to the Norway rat, although the roof rat is less prolific, producing only four to eight pups per litter.  Roof rats to not interbreed with Norway rats. 

The roof rat is less adaptable to the cooler temperatures as the Norway rat, and thus its range is somewhat restricted to the coastal and more tropical regions of the United States.  This rat occupies the coastal area from Washington, Oregon, and California, as well as a larger area along the Gulf and Atlantic coast states from Texas to Maryland.  Roof rats are the predominate rat in many coastal cities (e.g., Houston, Miami, Seattle, San Diego, etc.).  In seaports, they frequently board and become troublesome on ships.  As a general rule, the roof rat does not occur more than 100 miles inland, unless the population is associated with a major waterway.  For example, the roof rat is occasionally transported via deliveries of all sorts.  Thus, temporary and/or small populations of roof rats are reported from time to time throughout the United States. 

In regions of the country where both species of rats occur, it is not uncommon to find Norway rats inhabiting the ground and lower portions of buildings, while the roof rat establishes itself in the exterior vegetation, or in the upper stories, attics, and soffits of the same building.

 

Bennett, Gary W., Owens, John M., Corrigan, Robert M. Truman’s Scientific Guide to Pest Management Operations, Sixth ed. Cleveland:  Advanstar Communications, Inc. 2005.  Print.

Next Blog:  Behavior of the Roof Rat

Rodents: What you may not want to know, but should. (Part 4 of 6)

MYTH:  Cheese is a favorite rodent food, and good bait for traps.

FACT:   Traditionally, cheese became a common bait because it was readily available, could be fastened or tied to a trap, lasted along time and had an attractive odor.  Professional rodent trappers, however, usually have cheese far down their list of preferred baits, if it is on the list at all.

            Peanut butter is a common and effective bait, where it can be used without concern of peanut allergies.  Meats such as bacon are highly effective, as is chocolate.  In dry locations, moist food may be more attractive.  Cotton balls can be good bait because female rats and mice will try to take them for nesting material. 

Kaukeinen, Dale E.  “(More) Myths about Rodents.” Pest Management Professional May 2008: Vol. 76 No. 5.  Print. 

Last week we began learning about the Norway rat.  This week we will learn more about this rodent’s habits. 

[The following information is taken in part from Truman’s Scientific Guide to Pest Management Operations, Sixth Edition] 

The Norway rat is a social animal and lives in colonies, often as a ground-dwelling animal in exterior earthen burrows.  On farms they inhabit barns, granaries, livestock buildings, and silos.  In cities, the rat nests in the ground when space is available.  It may also nest and spend its entire life inside urban buildings.  Rats inhabit residences, all types of food facilities, warehouses, stores, hotels, zoos, sewers, and dumps.  It is also common to find rats living by ponds and lakes in parks, as well as in the wild near rivers and streams. 

Adult rats consume about one ounce of food daily.  They prefer food with a high carbohydrate and protein content although almost any type of food will be taken (food items in household garbage provide rats with a balanced diet).  Cereal grains, meats, fish, livestock feed, and fresh fruit are all readily taken.  Rats living outdoors will either feed outside, or they will enter buildings at night on a daily basis for food and return to their outdoor burrows after feed.  Among wild populations, rats kill and eat various small mammals, reptiles, birds, and insects.  In sewers, rats capture and eat American cockroaches. 

Unlike mice, the rat cannot survive for very long without free water, requiring ½-1 ounce of water daily when feeding on dry food, but they need less when their food source is moist.  In an around buildings, rats obtain their water directly from sinks and toilets, rain puddles, the dew off plants, or by licking water off condensing utility pipes. 

Rats constantly explore and re-explore their surroundings, and are wary of new foods, new objects, or changes in their environment.  This behavior is termed “neophobia,” meaning “fear of new.”  Even a change in position of a familiar object causes suspicion.  This is why traps and bait boxes are sometimes avoided for a day or two.  Rats that have become conditioned to eating particular food, approach new food with much suspicion and taste it cautiously.  If it tastes bad or makes them sick, they won’t eat it again.  This behavior is called “bait (or toxicant) shyness.” 

Bennett, Gary W., Owens, John M., Corrigan, Robert M. Truman’s Scientific Guide to Pest Management Operations, Sixth ed. Cleveland:  Advanstar Communications, Inc. 2005.  Print. 

Next Blog:  The Roof Rat

Rodents: What you may not want to know, but should. (Part 3 of 6)

MYTH:  Rodents won’t eat poison baits if their regular food is around.

FACT:   Modern rodenticide bait products are made to be particularly attractive and palatable to rodents.  They can compete with most alternate food products, especially if put in a protected location where rats and mice feel secure in feeding.  The results of rodenticide bating can be improved if other food materials can be reduced.

Kaukeinen, Dale E.  “(More) Myths about Rodents.” Pest Management Professional May 2008: Vol. 76 No. 5.  Print.

Last week we blogged about the House mouse.  This week we want to introduce the Norway rat. 

[The following information is taken in part from Truman’s Scientific Guide to Pest Management Operations, Sixth Edition]

 

The Norway Rat

 

The Norway rat is also known as the house rat, brown rat, wharf rat, sewer rat, water rat, and gray rat.  It was introduced into the United States by European settlers and trading ships in about 1775.  It is now the most widely distributed rat species in the United States, being found in all the states (in parts of some states, however, the roof rat is more prevalent).  The Norway rat is larger, stronger, and more aggressive, and better adapted for producing young and surviving in colder climates than the roof rat and other rat species.

The adult Norway rat has a stocky body, weighing about 12 to 16 ounces.  Rats slightly heavier than this do occur (people often claim to see—and boast of—“rats as big as alley cats”) but are rare.  The body fur is coarse and ranges from reddish- to grayish-brown with buff-white under parts, but many color variations exist including black Norway rats.  The nose is blunt, the ears are small, close set, and do not reach the eye when pulled down.  The tail is scaly, semi-naked and shorter than the head and body combined. 

Indoors, the Norway rat may breed all year long, although breeding peaks are normally in the spring and fall of the year.  In outdoor colonies, breeding decreases significantly during the hot summers and cold winters. 

In captivity, rats may live for three or more years, but the average wild rat lives for only 5 to 12 months.  Many wild rats are killed by predators, other rats, people, or they die of disease or stress before they are one year old. 

Bennett, Gary W., Owens, John M., Corrigan, Robert M. Truman’s Scientific Guide to Pest Management Operations, Sixth ed. Cleveland:  Advanstar Communications, Inc. 2005.  Print. 

Next Week:  The Norway Rat (cont.)